18ct Yellow Gold, Blue Sapphires
VINCENT’S EMPTY SOVEREIGN
The stand-out icon from the Vincent collection, this ring is without doubt a show stopper. The design toys with a traditional jewellery concept, subverts it and leaves us with an elegantly subversive piece of jewellery with devilish details.
The Vincent collection draws inspiration from monumental Soviet modernist architecture, and early 20th century gentleman’s accessories as well as the seductively dark and sinister underworld of London. This ring balances beauty and the strength perfectly.
With a wry sense of humour Hannah set about to re-invent the classic sovereign ring and, seen here in yellow gold and dark blue sapphires, it would certainly seem she has risen to the challenge. An exceptional limited edition piece of fine jewellery with a sophisticated twist.
Edition of 45
18 Carat Yellow Gold with Deep Blue Sapphires.
This ring is made from 35 grams of solid 18 carat yellow gold and contains approximately 2.9 carats of princess cut deep blue sapphires. The sapphires have been further hand cut in London to fit the ring perfectly and are channel set. Each ring is made and set by hand in London. Dimension Details: Diameter of Top 27mm Maximum Wall Thickness of Sovereign 5mm Height Above Finger 9mm.
‘Vincent’ is a collection about a gangster. A suave and sophisticated, yet deadly dangerous, Russian mafioso ruling London’s underworld with an iron fist. I imagined Vincent to be impeccably dressed, in perfect tailoring, with never a hair out of place. His jewels were symbolic of the world he ruled – each one with a different hidden meaning, of who knows what.
As part of my research I was fascinated by very classic gentlemen’s accessories – from vintage lighters, through old watches and their chains to symbolic rings. I also immersed myself in the films of David Cronenburg and Tarkovsy, spent hours looking at, and drawing, monumental Soviet modernist architecture, and the incredible Russian communist propaganda graphics, as well as post-modern artists such as Malevich, amongst others.
The sovereign ring felt like an important piece to me in this collection, if I could get it right. They are a classic piece of jewellery, with all the right connotations for a life lived in the depths of London’s underworld. My problem was how to make this traditional, almost ubiquitous, piece come to life in a modern way, capturing the vitality and volume I wanted from the collection.
I used references in the design to roulette wheels (every good gangster has at least one or two casino’s in their power), mixing these with the inspirations above. But it was when I decided to remove the ‘sovereign’ itself from the sovereign ring, that this piece really took shape.
The exposed space in centre of the ring allowed me to really play on the sculptural volumes. There is also something very sensual about being able to see flesh through the ring - a hint of softness and vulnerability in an otherwise powerful piece of jewellery.