18ct Yellow Gold, Sapphire
VINCENT’S EMPTY MEDALLION YELLOW
A show-stopping icon piece from the Vincent collection, this medallion necklace toys with a traditional jewellery concept, subverts it and leaves us with an elegantly subversive piece of jewellery with devilish details.
The collection itself draws on Russian monumentalist architecture, as well as the dark, seductive underworld of London. This collector’s piece perfectly balances beauty with strength.
Edition of 45
18 Carat Yellow Gold with Deep Blue Sapphires
This pendant is made from 16 grams of solid 18 carat yellow gold and contains approximately 1.7 carats of blue sapphires. The sapphires have been further hand cut in London to fit the pendant perfectly and are channel set.
Each pendant is made and set by hand in London.
Pendant Diameter 40mm
Pendant Depth 6mm
Chain Length 50cm
‘Vincent’ is a collection about a gangster. A suave and sophisticated, yet deadly dangerous, Russian mafioso ruling London’s underworld with an iron fist.
I imagine Vincent to be impeccably dressed, a gentleman to his very bones, with never a hair out of place. His jewels are symbolic of the world he rules – each one with a different hidden meaning, of who knows what. Seen only be those he wishes to be seen by, you might perhaps just catch the back of his perfectly tailored coat as he speeds off down a dark alleyway, his hand-made boots clattering on the pavement.
As part of my research I was fascinated by very classic gentlemen’s accessories – from vintage lighters, through old watches and their chains to symbolic rings. I also immersed myself in the films of David Cronenburg and Tarkovsy, spent hours looking at, and drawing, monumental Soviet modernist architecture, and the incredible Russian communist propaganda graphics, as well as post-modern artists such as Malevich, amongst others.
This medallion is a partner-in-crime to the Empty Sovereign Ring. A medallion felt like an important piece to me in this collection, if I could get it right. Both sovereign rings and medallions are classic pieces of jewellery, with all the right connotations for a life lived in the depths of London’s underworld. My problem was how to make this traditional, almost ubiquitous, piece come to life in a modern way, capturing the vitality and volume I wanted from the collection.
I used references in the design to roulette wheels (every good gangster has at least one or two casino’s in their power), mixing these with the inspirations above. But it was when I decided to remove the very heart of the medallion form from the centre that this piece really took shape.
The exposed space in centre of the pendant allowed the sculptural volumes to accentuate themselves. The subtlety of the carved details around the sides became cleaner, more vivid. There is also something very sensual about being able to see flesh through the piece - a hint of softness and vulnerability in an otherwise powerful piece of jewellery.