From the very early stages of the design process I knew I wanted this collection to be a celebration of the very metal it was made from – clean, pure, graphic and strong shapes that celebrated the gold from which they were crafted. Unapologetic designs that gave their wearer the darkly thrilling sensations I had conjured up in my narrative.
The collection itself is a hymn to underground London, the very darkest parts of it.
The narrative initially grew out of my responses to the film ‘Performance*’ – it is a collection that explores balances of power, the boundaries of gender and a hidden London, inhabited by mobsters, fallen rock stars and creatures of the night.
My research led me from characters such as Mick Jagger and the Kray Twins through the work of artists such as George Bellows, Brassai and Robert Mapplethorpe, to the writings of the Marquis De Sade, amongst others.
Because I felt that the gold should be the real hero of this collection, I started to play with the traditional idea of ‘setting’ stones using metal – but gave it a twist. In these cufflinks, a gold stud is ‘set’ into the gold itself, creating a shape that is both strong and powerful, but also with a touch of sensuality added by the curvaceous lines that flow through the shirt cuff to join the studs on either side.
* Dir. Donald Cammell/Nicholas Roeg. 1970